The Art of Creating Fragrances
On this article I will be lifting the lid on what we do, the process and steps required to create a fragrance and what thoughts, collaborations, partnerships and suppliers we use to bring everything together.
Creating a fragrance is a lot more than just adding a few ingredients together.
Everything for us at Atenai London starts with the fragrance brief, and that brief is done by me, the creative director of the brand and one that I always look forward to.
This is where for me the magic happens, when I think about what I intend to offer, the reasons why, the ingredients I would like to use, the philosophy behind the fragrance, and the scent I want to add to our products and brand.
This is of course not only a very personal creative process but at the same a business one as well, after all our brand will succeed or fail via the fragrances created and therefore this is a critical step and making our brand a success.
So how does it all come together.
Atenai London fragrance decisions
One thing to note that is slightly different perhaps from other perfume houses is that from day one we, at Atenai London are about providing the same scent on all our products for that specific range.
That in itself does come with a different thought process as the fragrance is not created with an eau de parfum as the final product on its own but one that will be used on every single product within that range, be it a Hand & Body Lotion, a Hand Cream, a Shampoo, a Candle or a Reed Diffuser.
That is key.
One of my initial approved versions of the Sanctuary Fragrance had to be scrapped by that same reason.
You see, there is a regulatory association called IFRA, which stands for International Fragrance Association, this is an organization that regulates and sets standards for fragrances in consumer products.
By doing that it regulates the percentages of the ingredients used in perfume, body care products and others such as candles and diffusers so that everything you use is safe to use and will not damage the skin, hair or will do any harm if inhaled.
On an initial version of the sanctuary fragrance, the percentage of a certain ingredient (in this case it was the flower Ylang Ylang) was too high to be used on our diffuser. In that moment almost 4 months of work were thrown away as we had to redo the whole process and restart the creation of our Sanctuary fragrance.
Most brands would at this stage just continue and then not use it for the diffuser but that is not what Atenai London is about.
That is why we redid the composition of the essential oil so that we could keep our promise to our customers and to ourselves as a brand that pushes the envelope and works towards providing what is in our DNA. The same scent throughout all our products on that specific range.
Excellence in Craftsmanship
At Atenai London, we collaborate with some of the most renowned perfumers to craft exquisite, luxurious scents.
Based on detailed descriptions and notes designed by me on the brief, each fragrance is then masterfully blended with delicate florals, refreshing fruit notes, and rich, captivating bases, designed to offer a perfectly balanced and unforgettable sensory experience.
Every scent is a testament to our unwavering commitment to excellence and the art of fine perfumery.
We pride ourselves on partnering with trusted suppliers from both the UK and France, ensuring complete control over our supply chain. Even if products or other composites are sourced further afield, the quality and expertise we use has to be of the same standard as we use on everything we do.
This close collaboration allows us to uphold the highest standards of quality and sustainability in every product we create, delivering a refined experience from start to finish.
Formulation Philosophy
Our approach at Atenai London is guided by a philosophy of "simple but high quality."
While not every ingredient is 100% naturally derived, each one is meticulously chosen for its stability, effectiveness, and performance. In fact, having 100% natural ingredients or products is something that we decided to go against and on another article, I will state why that is and why we decided not to do so.
I never compromise on safety, ethics, or the integrity of our formulations, offering you products that deliver results while remaining true to our values.
Atenai London Sanctuary Brief
The brief is where it all starts and this is the description, ideas and ultimately what the perfumer will receive from me to then create the essential oil we will use on that fragrance.
The brief can be as short or as long as you want, the one below is abbreviated at around 2 pages long, my briefs to perfumers are vastly bigger with notes on what essential oils to use for example so they can be around 5 pages long including images, and with more information and details on it.
Changes are always inevitable, and it is then that the synergy between you and the perfumer really comes to the fore, to then make the final decision and the final product that will go into market, but different people do different things and please remember all this is very fluid.
Product Description & Storyline
Mood: Nourishing and Uplifting
Fragrance: Rose & Frankincense
TOP: Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Sicilian Citrus
MIDDLE: Rose, Jasmine, Geranium, Ginger
BASE: Frankincense, Amber, Precious Woods
Description:
Our Sanctuary fragrance welcomes you to discover the elegant fusion of Rose and Frankincense, a beautiful blend that captures a nourishing and uplifting mood with every note. Sanctuary is more than just a fragrance; it's an intimate invitation and a reminder that, amid the hustle, there is always a sanctuary within reach – a fragrant haven that uplifts your spirit, nourishes your mind, and soothes your soul.
Glimpses of Citrus
These lively citrus top notes awaken the senses, creating a fresh and invigorating introduction to Sanctuary. The combination of Pink Pepper, Sicilian Citrus and bergamot forms a vibrant symphony mirroring the soft glow of a sunlit morning, setting the stage for a fragrant journey filled with vitality and positivity.
Like a warm hug: Soft Rose and a Pinch of Spice
Once the initial freshness settles, the fragrance reveals its heart—a smooth and elegant blend of Rose, a touch of Jasmine, Geranium and Ginger. It's like a cozy cocoon inviting you to unwind and connect with the fragrance and yourself on a deeper level.
The sweet and floral embrace of Rose petals, the subtle warmth of Jasmine and Geranium, and the gentle spice of Ginger create a harmonious blend that invites you into a moment of self-love and relaxation, turning the fragrance into a personal and intimate experience.
Amber and Precious Woods: Rooted in Earthiness
As the scent mellows out, an earthy hug unfolds with Amber and Precious Woods Imagine the cool earth beneath your feet—a serene spot where your senses take a break, and calmness sets in naturally. Amber and Precious Woods, the grounding duo in this aromatic symphony, bring a touch of earthy sophistication to the composition.
Amber, with its rich and sweet, musky aroma, provides a sense of depth and natural elegance. Precious Woods on the other hand, contributes a smoky, woody essence, adding an intriguing complexity that is both calming and invigorating.
Comforting Frankincense: The Embodiment of a Sanctuary
Frankincense plays a central role in creating a calm atmosphere. This aromatic note serves as a grounding force, connecting the fragrance to a quiet refuge, inviting you to unwind and find solace. This aromatic gem transforms this fragrance into a sanctuary of its own. As Frankincense gracefully unfolds, it brings with it a sense of ancient tranquillity, infusing the blend with a touch of timelessness.
Notes:
All my fragrances should have a good longevity and sileage, despite being an Eau de Parfum, should last at least 5-6 hours. It shouldn’t be too overpowering though as we want all our fragrances to be smelled and linger but not overpower the room.
Needs to be Vegan and Cruelty Free.
Product Range:
All fragrances must be able to be used for products such as:
Eau de Parfum Perfume, Body Lotion, Body Scrub, Body Wash, Hand wash, Hand Cream, Shampoo, Candles, Reed Diffusers among other.
We are looking at 20% Eau de Parfum Concentration.
I hope this article gives you an idea of what we do to bring a fragrance into the market and what goes into that process.
It would be great to hear from you and your own ideas on what creating a fragrance is about and if you have any questions or comments, do let me know.
