Ingredients Glossary

Aqua:

Aqua/Water/Eau (also simply known as water) is the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient. Aqua/Water/Eau in skin care products is almost always listed first on an ingredient label because it is usually the ingredient with the highest concentration in the formula.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera):

Components of aloe vera leaf include minerals, polyphenols, and vitamins. This commonly used plant extract offers antioxidant qualities to defend skin from environmental stressors. Studies also show it delivers soothing properties and serves as a humectant (hydrating agent).

Protecting, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Microbial,

Glycerine:

Glycerine is one of those ingredients that you’ll find in nearly everything, but it somehow remains something of a mystery. You probably know that glycerine can be used to make glycerin soap, and you may have some knowledge of its other uses, like in cosmetics or medications. But we’re betting you’re not super-familiar with the various benefits of glycerine for skin, or even where this powerhouse ingredient comes from.

Glycerine is derived from lipids. In skincare products, it’s generally used as a moisturiser, and it’s particularly effective for dry or dehydrated skin.

Healing Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Protecting

Coco Glucoside:

Coco-glucoside is a mixture of non-drying fatty alcohol from coconut oil and the sugar glucose. It primarily functions as a gentle cleansing agent in cosmetics because of its ability to lift dirt and oils from skin. It may be plant-derived (from coconuts) or manufactured synthetically.

With ultra-gentle cleansing properties, Coco Glucoside is well-suited to all skin types and makes an ideal addition to mild formulations for natural products that are especially intended for sensitive skin.

Decyl Glucoside:

Decyl glucoside is primarily used for its surfactant (cleansing) properties. While most common in facial and body cleansers, you can also find decyl glucoside in products such as self-tanners, sunscreens, and liquid foundations where it may function as an emulsion stabiliser.

Decyl glucoside is obtained from the condensation of glucose + the fatty alcohol decanol, which comes from coconuts. Its mildness makes it popular for use in baby shampoos. This ingredient is known for producing desirable foaming properties.

As a raw material, decyl glucoside is described as a water-soluble, clear to slightly hazy yellow or amber viscous liquid.

In 2013, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel deemed decyl glucoside “safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.” Their report looked at rinse-off products containing up to 33% and only up to 2% for leave-on formulas.

Phenoxyethanol:

Phenoxyethanol is a widely used synthetic preservative with global approval for use in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetic products in concentrations up to 1%. It’s often used in even lower amounts, especially when combined with other preservatives.

Phenoxyethanol is incredibly versatile in that it works in a large range of formulas and pH ranges and offers broad-spectrum activity against many pathogens. It is both water and oil soluble and is compatible with many other preservatives used in cosmetics.

While phenoxyethanol has gotten a bad rap in recent years, the controversial research behind this movement is not about the cosmetics-grade phenoxyethanol, and that’s important to keep in mind. Think of it this way: even plant extracts have to be purified when they are removed from the ground and put into skin care products.

No one wants worms and dirt in their products. Phenoxyethanol is similar in that it’s purified before it’s used in cosmetic formulations, and it in that form it’s safe, backed by decades of safety assessments.

Concentration also matters. A 100% concentration of phenoxyethanol comes with some scary warnings. For example, the Safety Data Sheet on this preservative describes it as harmful if it contacts skin, is inhaled, or gets into the eyes but this doesn’t apply to the 1% concentration used in cosmetics.

Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil:

Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil is an essential oil obtained from the leaves of the Lemon Grass, Cymbopogon citratus, Poaceae.

Relieve stress, Anxiety, and anti-depression

Niacinamide:

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. It's found in many foods including meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals. Niacinamide is required for the function of fats and sugars in the body and to maintain healthy cells.

Multi-tasking antioxidant nutrient that helps brighten and smooth.

Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract:

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract by Morechem acts as an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agent. It contains more amount of anthocyanin, flavonoids and resveratol in Acai Berry. Acai Berry removes free radical and ROS very effectively, which helps improve skin elasticity.

Repairing, Regenerating

Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract:

Carica papaya leaf extract is a natural, antioxidant-rich plant extract that contains flavonoids, saponins, alkaloids, tannins, and glycosides. It’s a documented potent antioxidant that can assist in the fight against pro-aging environmental stressors.

Although from the same plant, this ingredient differs greatly from papaya fruit extract as the leaf doesn’t contain the exfoliating enzyme (papain) or vitamin C. Research has shown Carica papaya leaf extract contains caffeic acid and rutin, both powerful and potent antioxidants.

When paired with the plant extract’s other antioxidant flavonoid compounds, they work to curb the effects of aggressive aging external agents, keeping skin looking youthful and even.

Although Carica papaya leaf extract doesn’t contain the potent skin-sensitising enzyme papain that papaya fruit extract contains, it does contain tannins, which are antioxidant compounds that can potentially irritate the skin.

Panthenol (B5):

Panthenol is derived from pantothenic acid (a B vitamin) and is sometimes referred to as pro-vitamin B5 in the skincare arena.

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) is widely found in skincare, haircare, oral supplements, and makeup due to its excellent moisturising properties.

Although pantothenic acid occurs naturally in human and plant sources, panthenol is synthetically produced for use in skincare.

Antioxidant, Regenerating, Moisturising

Skin Benefits of Panthenol

Highly moisturising
Reduces TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) by working as a humectant to attract water into the skin and keep it there.

Soothing
Acts as an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory to calm redness, itchiness, and a compromised skin barrier. It has great healing properties.

Emollient
Keeps water trapped in the skin and is great for sealing any rough, dry, or cracked skin by providing a protective film.

Panthenol is known to act as both a humectant and an emollient. This means your skin will be left soft, supple, and smooth in both appearance and feel.

Carotenoids:

Carotenoids, along with vitamin E, vitamin C, and Co enzyme Q10 are important dermal antioxidants. Due to their antioxidant activity, carotenoids support and encourage collagen and elastin production in the skin.

This helps to increase the skin's density, thickness, elasticity, and firmness.

Carbomer:

Carbomers are a series of polymers that derive from acrylic acid. Companies use them in a range of products as emulsifiers, thickeners, suspenders, and binders. Research suggests that they are generally nonirritating on the skin. Health experts generally consider carbomers safe and nontoxic for humans.

Potassium Sorbate:

It is an odourless and tasteless salt synthetically produced from sorbic acid and potassium hydroxide. Potassium sorbate prolongs the shelf life of foods by stopping the growth of mould, yeast, and fungi. It was discovered in the 1850s by the French, who derived it from berries of the mountain ash tree.

Cellulose:

Cellulose is a molecule, consisting of hundreds – and sometimes even thousands – of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms. Cellulose is the main substance in the walls of plant cells, helping plants to remain stiff and upright. Humans cannot digest cellulose, but it is important in the diet as fibre.

Sodium Hyaluronate:

Sodium hyaluronate is a derivative of hyaluronic acid. It has many uses, including the treatment of arthritis, dry eyes, ulcers, and wounds. It is also present in skin care products and cosmetics. Sodium hyaluronate is a humectant, which means that it attracts moisture.

Sodium Hydroxide:

Sodium hydroxide is a pH balancer used in a wide range of beauty and skin care items, like cleansers, soaps, makeup, and creams or lotions. In its pure form, sodium hydroxide is extremely harmful, but beauty and skin care products don't contain much sodium hydroxide, so they're safe to use.

Cetearyl Alcohol:

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or made synthetically.

Unlike the skin-aggravating/drying forms of alcohol (typically listed as SD alcohol, denatured alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol), cetearyl alcohol is an emollient that is gentle, safe, and good for skin.

Beyond cetearyl alcohol’s emollient ability to provide a softening and smoothing effect, it is also used as a carrying agent for other ingredients.

Additionally, it can be used to alter the thickness of a formula or to influence the foaming capacity of a cleanser. It is almost always combined with similar-feeling ingredients to create a product’s texture and slip sensation when applied to skin.

Glyceryl Stearate:

Glyceryl stearate is a mixture of portions of glycerine and stearic acid. While it’s found naturally in the human body and can be animal-derived, most glyceryl stearate used in cosmetics is plant-derived (such as from olive oil or coconut) or produced synthetically. In its raw form it is a white or cream-colored wax-like solid.

Glyceryl stearate functions as an emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier in skin care products. Its emulsifying properties are highly versatile, making it a valuable and gentle addition to several types of emulsions, such as oil-in-water or water-in-oil, where it helps support the benefits of skin-replenishing ingredients such as ceramides and fatty acids.

Its moisturising properties help skin look and feel softer and smoother. It also forms a barrier on skin, helping prevent water loss. In addition, glyceryl stearate is used as a food additive.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil:

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a non-fragrant emollient extracted from the seeds of a perennial shrub. It has been shown to enhance skin’s restorative properties and can also provide topical skin-soothing benefits.

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a rich source of numerous fatty acids and antioxidants. The texture of _Simmondsia chinensis_ (jojoba) seed oil is similar to the sebum (oil) human skin produces, which makes it a brilliant ingredient for dry skin but potentially problematic for those with oily skin prone to clogged pores and breakouts.

The molecular size of jojoba seed oil lets it penetrate the pore lining where it can mix with skin’s own oil and potentially lead to or worsen clogs. Jojoba wax is considered more of an issue for breakout-prone skin than jojoba oil due to the more solidifying nature of wax.

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil has the distinction of feeling lighter and less greasy than many other oils, particularly highly saturated oils such as coconut. It is one of the more stable plant oils in use today.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil is a non-volatile, non-fragrant plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics.

Sunflower seed oil’s 60% (on average) linoleic acid content has the ability to help replenish, strengthen, and soothe skin. This oil also contains other beneficial fatty acids skin can use, including oleic, palmitic, stearic, and a small amount of omega-3 linolenic acid.

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil is particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated, or environmentally compromised skin because its linoleic acid content helps skin synthesise its own lipids (fats), including ceramides, visibly repairing its barrier, and leading to smoother, healthier-looking skin.

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil also has a natural calming effect on skin, so can be helpful for reducing signs of skin stress or irritation.

In fact, research on infants with atopic dermatitis has shown that topical sunflower oil is a viable ingredient to alternate with topical steroids normally prescribed to control symptoms of this skin disorder.

Pantolactone:

Pantolactone is a synthetic humectant that plays a role in maintaining skin’s moisture balance. This compound is also known as pantoyl lactone, and it is required for the creation of skin-beneficial B vitamins panthenol and pantothenic acid.

It is typically included as part of a blend with other cosmetic hydrating ingredients such as panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and/or various strains of yeast. These ingredients work together to keep skin hydrated and help it resist water loss.

Pantolactone is considered safe as used in cosmetics, where amounts tend to be 1% or less.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is not referred to as SLS in the beauty industry and has a completely different profile in terms of performance and mildness.

SLSa is derived from coconut and palm oils and is classified as a safe skin friendly surfactant for both skin and hair because of its large molecular structure.

It is also completely free of all sulfates and 100% natural.

A surfactant is a surface acting agent, which basically means that it causes products to fizz and foam.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is also considered to be a better choice product when a surfactant is required where as sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are both questionable ingredients and tend to cause more skin irritation.

Tocopherol:

Tocopherol is the name given to one of four forms of vitamin E. These four forms are d-alpha-tocopherol, d-alpha-tocopherol acetate, dl-alpha tocopherol, and dl-alpha tocopherol acetate. The “d” prefix indicates that the product was derived from natural sources, such as vegetable oils or wheat germ; whereas the “dl” prefix indicates that the vitamin was created from a synthetic base. Research has shown that natural forms of vitamin E are more effective than their synthetic counterparts, but both have antioxidant activity.

You’ll most commonly find vitamin E listed as tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate on the ingredient list. Vitamin E is a naturally occurring component of healthy skin, and its second most prevalent antioxidant behind ascorbic acid (vitamin C). It offers significant antioxidant properties to help defend from pollution and other environmental stressors that would otherwise weaken skin, causing unwanted changes.

In skin care formulas, vitamin E also works as a good supporting ingredient. For instance, in vitamin C products, vitamin E will donate a key electron that vitamin C (as ascorbic acid) needs to stabilise itself. Vitamin E also works well with other antioxidants such as rosemary, ferulic acid, and the amino acid taurine. Claims of using vitamin E to prevent scarring when skin is wounded haven’t yet been confirmed by published scientific research.

Vitamin E (tocopherol) can visibly improve hyperpigmentation when used in a 1% concentration. Typically, lower amounts are used in skin care for antioxidant benefit and to help preserve the stability of delicate ingredients.

Tocopherol as used in skin care is almost always supplied as an oil, since it is derived from sources like soy, rice bran, or flax oils, among others. It has a characteristic yellow to gold or even light brown colour and subtle odour. However, depending on the supplier, tocopherol may also be clear (transparent) to pale yellow. It will oxidise and become darker in colour from exposure to air and light.

Ascorbyl Palmitate:

It is a stable vitamin C derivative. It protects the skin, promotes its development, and improves its appearance. It is an effective antioxidant which protects the cells against damage caused by free radicals. It counteracts skin aging in promoting collagen formation.

Alpha-Arbutin:

Alpha-arbutin is a plant-derived or synthetic ingredient that helps to brighten, fade discolorations, protect skin from oxidative stress and promote a more even skin tone. It is made from hydroquinone and the alpha form of the sugar molecule, glucose. Its mechanism of action on skin isn’t fully understood; however, it’s believed to work by interrupting or limiting the ability of an enzyme in skin (known as tyrosinase) from making too much melanin.

This in turn helps reduce the size and appearance of surface discolorations. As an antioxidant, alpha-arbutin can help neutralize skin-damaging free radicals and also help boost skin’s natural antioxidant defences.

It was once thought that alpha-arbutin works because it breaks down to hydroquinone on skin, but now we know that the amount of hydroquinone produced from alpha-arbutin is likely too low to play a role in its discoloration-fading benefits. Interestingly, it seems microorganisms on skin’s surface and/or exposure to UV light are the triggers that release some of the hydroquinone used to create alpha-arbutin.

Research has shown that alpha-arbutin works synergistically with other proven ingredients to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation, including tranexamic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and retinaldehyde (retinal). Typical usage levels of alpha-arbutin in skin care range from 0.4–5%, although cosmetic ingredient reviews boards recommend a maximum usage level of 2% in leave-on products as being safe.

Amino Acids:

Thoroughly cleanse without drying 

Pumice:

Pumice is a mineral based physical exfoliant that helps break down dead skin cells, dirt and debris.

Chlorophyll:

Antioxidant rich and soothing phytonutrient. 

Macadamia oil:

Great for softening the skin, regenerating skin cells, moisturizing the skin, and is a natural anti-inflammatory